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When it comes to ski resorts and wintery adventures, the mountain towns in Colorado have an embarrassment of riches. Growing up in New Jersey, my family would drive nearly five hours to ski the resorts of Vermont. Sometimes my dad would pile us in his van and do a 10-hour round trip in a single day. I have so many fond memories of chilly outdoor time with my family as a kid. Then, I headed west later in life.
Why I Love These Mountain Towns in Colorado
When I moved to Boulder, Colorado I was blown away to learn that I had nearly a dozen resorts within a two-hour drive and another dozen more just a bit further. The initial allure was, of course, the downhill. But then I began to discover the other adventures on offer, from fat tire biking along stunning singletrack and Nordic skiing past old gold mines, to snowmobiling and dog sledding in the backcountry.
Every ski town has its own personality, plus quirky annual events that I try to time my visits around. The properties from GravityHaus—a hip hotel membership club that started in Breckenridge and now has outposts in Vail, Winter Park, and Steamboat Springs—is my typical go-to stay for the hyperlocal vibe, convenient co-working spaces, athlete-worthy gyms, and restaurants with high-quality cocktails and food (from $169 to $299 minimum per night).
If you prefer a vacation rental, East West Hospitality has properties in Vail, Beaver, Creek, Aspen, and Snowmass and recently introduced Peak Pursuits, an adventure-focused concierge service that can arrange activities such as heli-skiing and sleigh ride dinners. Here’s my cheat sheet on how to navigate the on and off-piste winter thrills of the most beautiful mountain towns in Colorado.
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Best Things to Do in Aspen-Snowmass
Uphilling at Ajax Mountain in Aspen for morning pancakes at Bonnie’s (Photo: Jen Murphy)
I have a soft spot for Aspen. If you look past the glitz and glamor you can still find a soulful mountain town with epic adventures on offer. A free public transportation system transfers you between the resort’s four mountains, each with its own personality and appeal (Buttermilk for families; Aspen-Highlands for its mythic bowl). And Hero’s, the new terrain expansion on Aspen Mountain, will push your edge with chutes and gladed areas. You can be part of the downtown après scene, but I prefer to get my culture fix after skiing and visit the Aspen Art Museum or Anderson Ranch Arts Center.
Where to Play
In my opinion, Aspen-Snowmass has Colorado’s best uphilling policy. A season uphill pass costs $69 ($10 of the fee goes to Mountain Rescue Aspen) and gives you access to dedicated routes on Buttermilk and Snowmass mountains all day, and you can uphill Ajax Mountain and Aspen Highlands when the lift isn’t spinning. The Roaring Fork Valley is also a Nordic mecca, boasting 60 miles of free cross-country and snowshoe trails between Aspen, Snowmass, and Basalt.
I like to work up an appetite, skate skiing the Rio Grande Trail so I can splurge on the burger at Woody Creek Tavern or I’ll pay for a $25 pass at Ashcroft Nordic Center, set across from an old ghost town, so I can cross-country ski out to Pine Creek Cookhouse for their pre-fixe lunch menu. They also have an option to reach the restaurant by horse-drawn sleigh.
For unreal views without a lot of effort, book a snowmobile tour to Maroon Bells with T Lazy Ranch (from $275).
Where to Stay
Aspen has no shortage of ritzy hotels with see-and-be-seen crowds but I prefer the low-key Limelight properties in both Aspen (from $629 a night) and Snowmass (from $569 a night). Rooms are outfitted with Smeg fridges and microwaves, banquette seating for dining or remote working, plus plenty of hooks and cubbies for ski gear. In the morning, you’re treated to a complimentary breakfast buffet. After skiing, you can soak in the hot tub or heated outdoor pool then hit the bar for live music and wood-fired pizza.
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Where to Eat
The saloon at Hunter Thompson’s old haunt, Woody Creek Tavern—the perfect place for an après cocktail before you hit one of these spots below (Photo: Jen Murphy)
The former Lynn Britt log cabin recently underwent a renovation and expansion and this season will be accessible by foot off of Snowmass’s new Coney Express Lift. You can ski in for lunch or extended après hours, which feature shotskis and charcuterie boards, or book an evening snowcat dinner.
I buy an uphill pass just so I can attend the monthly full moon uphill dinners at the Cliffhouse at Buttermilk.
Buck, a new dive bar in Aspen, was recently opened by two locals and affordably-priced food was a term of the restaurant’s deed-restricted lease. A beer and beef slider will cost you less than $10; a steal in Aspen.
And if you’re flying in or out of the airport, a detour to Mawa’s Kitchen, tucked away in the Aspen Airport Center, is a must. Her flavorful dishes, like vegetable maffe, a West African peanut curry, and seafood gumbo, pay homage to her French and Ivory Coast roots.
Don’t-Miss Event
Buttermilk Mountain will host the Winter X Games January 23-25, 2025 and the Toyota U.S. Grand Prix and the Visa Big Air January 30-February 6. But I’m most excited for the inaugural halfpipe event of Olympic snowboarder Shaun White’s new Snow League, happening March 7-8.
Best Things to Do in Breckenridge
The Peak 8 hike off the Imperial SuperChair, accessing Lake Chutes and Snow White terrain (Photo: Jen Murphy)
Just 80 miles west of Denver, Breckenridge is one of the state’s most popular Front Range ski resorts. Some lament the crowds, but I find once you’re on the mountain, it’s easy to spread out. Five peaks boast more than 180 trails webbed across nearly 3,000 skiable acres of terrain, ranging from high-alpine bowls to beginner-friendly tree runs.
I like to rise early and warm up with a yoga class at Meta Yoga Studios and always build in a down day to explore the boutiques, restaurants, and public art and studios of the creative district in Breck’s charming Victorian downtown.
Where to Play
Rent a fat bike (they also have e-fat bikes) from Ridden and explore the nearly 20 miles of groomed trails at the Gold Run Nordic Center (half-day rentals from $65). The outfitter’s guided rides to Broken Compass Craft Brewery and Breckenridge Distillery are great because they provide transportation back to town so you can imbibe worry-free (from $85).
Where to Stay
The Carlin feels more like a restaurant with rooms. The Euro-style inn has just four, Scandi-minimalist suites stocked with useful amenities like Topo Designs backpacks and yoga mats. Two of the town’s best eateries are just below the rooms. The seafood-centric, ground-floor restaurant features a raw bar and items like fish and chips and lobster roll sliders; the basement-level speakeasy-inspired tavern serves comfort foods like cheesesteaks and fried chicken sammys. (From $399 per night.)
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Where to Eat
Fuel up for the day with the breakfast of champions: the Gravity Bowl from Cabin Juice at Gravity Haus Breckenridge. Then, be sure to snag dinner reservations in advance at Rootstalk. (Photo: Jen Murphy)
Matt Vawter, chef and owner of Rootstalk, was recently named the James Beard Awards’ best chef in the mountain region. The mega accolade, often called the Oscars of the food world, has made reservations to experience his exceptional tasting menu a must.
Don’t-Miss Event
Ullr Fest, a wacky celebration of the Norse god of snow, takes place December 12-14, 2024 with a colorful parade of costumed revelers. This year, Breck will try to lure 1,370 participants to help reclaim the unofficial world’s longest shotski record from Park City. I hope to be there.
Best Things to Do in Crested Butte
The author scoring pow on a cat skiing adventure with Irwin Guides in Crested Butte (Photo: Jen Murphy)
I live in one of the greatest mountain towns in Colorado, but I still get mountain-town envy every time I visit Crested Butte. The soulful vibe and lack of big brand hotels and chains have earned it the reputation as Colorado’s last great ski town. If you’re seeking rowdy terrain, Crested Butte Mountain Resort delivers. Known as the North American birthplace of inbounds extreme skiing and riding, it boasts more than 560 acres of expert terrain. Want bragging rights? Tackle Rambo, a 55-degree-pitch run considered the steepest lift-served, tree-cut trail in the U.S. Beyond the resort, the surrounding Gunnison Valley offers a treasure trove of backcountry adventures to satiate all types of outdoor lovers.
Where to Play
Cat skiing with local outfitter Irwin Guides on 1,000 acres of powder-blessed terrain just ten miles out of town ranks as one of my all-time snowboard days (private cat for up to 10 people costs $8,500 or buy a single seat for $850).
If there’s a dry spell, fat biking is a perfect alternative to downhill skiing and Crested Butte Mountain Bike Association grooms a number of areas around town that are free to access. The Crested Butte Nordic Center maintains nearly 35 miles of trails that can be accessed with a $25 day pass. The six miles of trails at the Town Ranch and on the Rec Path can be accessed for free.
Where to Stay
Ski-in/ski-out Elevation Hotel & Spa has an on-site ski rental shop, a sprawling spa, spacious rooms, and a lounge in partnership with local film company Matchstick Productions that hosts screenings and athlete activations (from $230 a night).
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Where to Eat
Located at the Nordic Center, Magic Meadows Yurt hosts multi-course, communal brunches and dinners throughout the winter season. (Photo: Jen Murphy)
Carb up at the Secret Stash, a dive-y pizza spot. I love that the menu at the Hideout Kitchen + Bar has healthy options like the completely satisfying quinoa-spiked power salad, as well as the not-so-healthy stuff you crave after a day slaying pow, like a burger topped with pork belly and fried onions.
On Sundays, in-the-know locals Nordic ski or snowshoe to brunch at Magic Meadows Yurt, located one-mile from the Peanut Lake Trailhead Loop.
Don’t-Miss Event
The Alley Loop, an outrageous costumed American Birkebeiner qualifying Nordic event, takes place February 1, 2025 and the course winds through the heart of downtown making it a favorite spectator event.
Best Things to Do in Steamboat Springs
Rodeo queens prepping for the annual Cowboy Downhill event at Steamboat Springs (Photo: Jen Murphy)
Ski Town USA is known for both its ultra-dry, trademark “champagne powder” and Old Western cowboy character. In the last few years, the resort has been re-imagined with a new base area, complete with a skating rink and food hall, and a dedicated beginner area, Greenhorn Ranch. Advanced skiers once bemoaned the lack of expert runs. No more. Last year the resort debuted Mahogany Ridge & Fish Creek Canyon, some 650 acres of test-your-mettle terrain.
A free bus runs every 20 minutes between the village and town, making it easy to explore galleries and shops like stalwart F.M. Light & Sons western wear.
Where to Play
Channel your inner cowboy (or girl) on a snowy trail ride at Del’s Triangle 3 Ranch, led by fifth-generation wrangler (and enthralling storyteller) Ray Heid ($150). Then warm up with a steamy soak. I like the ease of Old Town Hot Springs ($29) but clothing-optional-after-dark Strawberry Hot Springs is an experience ($20, cash only). If you don’t have 4WD and snow tires, book a shuttle to reach the secluded springs ($50 round-trip, entry fee included).
Where to Stay
The historic Western Lodge recently renovated its 35 rooms and has a hard-to-beat downtown location walking distance to shops and restaurants. (From $199 a night.)
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Where to Eat
Mouth-watering avo toast at Yampa Valley Kitchen in Steamboat Springs (Photo: Jen Murphy)
Options abound. On the hill, you can choose from ramen, pizza, tacos, and subs at the Range Food Hall. In town, the Commons Food Hall & Bar offers Jamaican jerk chicken, poke bowls, classic cocktails, and more. Brunch at Yampa Valley Kitchen is worth a late start on the slopes, particularly for the banana foster French toast and smoked tomato and pesto Benedict.
Don’t-Miss Event
Like a rodeo on the slopes, the annual Cowboy Downhill, January 20, 2025, always leaves me in stitches as I watch cowgirls and cowboys in their chaps and Stetsons speed down a dual slalom course, hit jumps, then lasso a person, saddle a horse, and ski across the finish line.
Families shouldn’t miss the oldest winter carnival west of the Mississippi. Celebrating 112 years on February 7-9, 2025 the festivities include ski racing, skijoring, and a fireworks-studded night show featuring the famed Lighted Man, who shoots fireworks from his pyrotechnic suit while skiing down the hill.
Best Things to Do in Telluride
The author taking in endless views of the San Juans from Telluride Mountain (Photo: Jen Murphy)
Telluride looks like it was meant for a snow globe. Nestled in a picturesque box canyon within the jagged San Juan Mountains, it isn’t the easiest resort to reach in winter, which means you rarely find crowds. If you make the effort, you’re rewarded with quad-burning slopes and a darling downtown lined with Victorian homes, art galleries, indie boutiques, and some seriously great dining.
A free, pedestrian gondola makes it effortless to bounce between the mountain and the historic downtown while soaking in awesome views.
Where to Play
Telluride Helitrax can access more than 200 square miles of high-alpine skiing and its single-day heli-trip promises six runs with up to 14,000 feet of leg-quivering vert (from $1,875 per person).
I always like to build in a mellow activity to temper all of the adrenaline and one of my favorite experiences over the years has been dog sledding the snowy trails of the Uncompahgre National Forest with family-run company, Idarado. (Prices vary, fill out this form for current rates.)
Where to Stay
I like the convenience of the ski-in/ski-out Peaks Resort & Spa (from $399 a night), and appreciate their massive fitness center. Intimate, five-bedroom Dunton Town House (from $550 a night) is steps from the town gondola and feels like a fancy B&B, complete with complimentary wine, beer, and snacks, and hearty breakfast spread.
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Where to Eat
Channeling European vibes with a charcuterie board at Alpino Vino in Telluride (Photo: Jen Murphy)
Sometimes I opt to stay downtown just so I can be walking distance to the Butcher & the Baker, an institution beloved for its monster-sized, made-from-scratch baked goods (the homemade pop tarts are addictive).
On piste, Alpino Vino, North America’s second highest elevation fine-dining restaurant, channels Italy’s Dolomites with its charcuterie and cheese spreads, deep wine list, and killer mountain views. I still haven’t experienced the omakase menu at Kazahana, a stellar sushi spot in town, but their happy hour is one of the best deals around with half price sushi rolls.
Don’t-Miss Event
Many Colorado resorts now host a Gay Ski Week, but Telluride’s (February 22-March 1, 2025) stands out for its raucous pool parties and kick-off event, the Telluride Aids Benefit fashion show gala.
Best Things to Do in Vail
For a lung-busting workout, go skate skiing on the trails at the Vail Nordic Center. (Photo: Jen Murphy)
People like to hate on Vail because its parent company is a mega ski conglomerate. That shouldn’t take away from its seriously great terrain. I’ve lived in Colorado for a decade and am still discovering all that the resort’s seven back bowls have to offer in its 2,785 acres of terrain. And in the last few years, the Bavarian-inspired village has been reinvigorated with new bars, restaurants, and the wild entertainment venue, Chasing Rabbits.
Where to Play
Skiing the Minturn Mile, an out-of-bounds run that spans three miles and drops 3,000 vertical feet, is a right of passage for hard-charging locals. I usually think of Nordic skiing as a killer workout, but Vail Resort’s Nordic School turns it into an adventure by leading half- and full-day tours into the White River National Forest where you’re likely to ski past abandoned mines and wildlife (from $160).
Where to Stay
I love how the Hythe celebrates the resort’s 1960s heyday. Design details, like framed 10th Mountain Division pins in the rooms, nod to the region’s alpine heritage. After a day on the hill I head straight to the downstairs recovery lounge, equipped with massage guns, leg compression sleeves, and a Himalayan salt room. (From $469 per night.)
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Where to Eat
This restaurant at the Hythe is named after the woman who made meals for 10th Mountain Division soldiers in her home during WWII. (Photo: Jen Murphy)
Matsuhisa has some competition now that upscale sushi spot Makoto has opened in the Grand Hyatt Vail. This winter, Denver’s award-winning Italian restaurant, Tavernetta, opens in the Four Seasons. On the mountain, I can never resist the smell of barbecue wafting from Wildwood Smokehouse, accessible off chairlifts 3, 17, and 7.
Don’t-Miss Event
I’ve marked my calendar to see the action at the Birds of Prey Audi FIS Ski World Cup at neighboring Beaver Creek December 6-15, 2024. Music fans won’t want to miss Après at the Amp, a weekend concert series April 4-5, 2025 featuring DJs like Interplanetary Criminal and Don Fuego (tickets from $99).
Best Things to Do in Winter Park
An after hours uphill adventure at Winter Park—don’t forget your headlamp (Photo: Jen Murphy)
I’ll admit, the initial appeal of snowboarding at Winter Park was that I could bypass traffic by hopping on the Winter Park Express, a stress-free, direct train service that runs Friday through Sunday throughout the winter from Denver’s Union Station to the base of the resort (tickets from $19 to $39).
Widely considered Colorado’s original ski resort, it strikes a rare balance of being both a destination yet feeling like locals still rule the hill. I’ve been a devotee since my first trip. You’ll find newbie and kid-friendly groomers and some super fun glades at Winter Park and neighboring peak Mary Jane is known for its thigh-burning moguls and hike-accessed Cirque terrain.
Where to Play
Head to Colorado Adventure Park to snow tube ($35 an hour), fat bike ($20 per hour), and snowshoe (rentals $25 per day).
On select Saturday evenings this January through March, you can uphill by headlamp for an alpine dinner at Snoasis, a vintage lodge near the Explorer Express and Prospector lifts, then descend under the stars.
Where to Stay
I satisfy my cabin fantasies by staying at the A Frame Club. This collection of 31 Instagram-worthy, mid-century-inspired cabins feature Malm fireplaces and deep soaking tubs and the restaurant has an Argentinean gaucho grill that cooks tomahawk ribeyes and wagyu for the decadent burger to perfection. (From $299 a night.)
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Where to Eat
Winter Park’s Main Street runs through town and offers a plethora of incredible restaurants to choose from when you’re hungrier than ever. (Photo: bauhaus1000/Getty)
The main drag of the town of Winter Park is about three miles from the resort and even on snowy nights I brave the drive just to have the fiery curries at Namaste India. And the French fries (yes, the fries) at Fraser Valley Distlling are so good I sometimes just have a whopping serving and an old fashioned and call it dinner.
Don’t-Miss Event
The annual Spring Bash and Splash is a rowdy series of bluegrass concerts, costume contests, beach parties, and pond skims held every weekend from the end of March through April.
The author on a recent ski trip to Steamboat Springs, Colorado (Photo: Jen Murphy)
Any time Jen Murphy gets frustrated sitting in Colorado’s I-70 ski traffic she has flashbacks to traffic jams enroute to the icy slopes of Vermont and the 30-second descents of the Poconos, the stomping grounds of her youth. Jen is a regular Outside contributor and our travel-advice columnist who has recently written a beginner’s guide to Costa Rica, a story on how she used AI to plan a trip to Maui, and shared tips on how to get refunded for vacations bunked by bad weather.
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Publish date : 2024-12-09 21:44:00
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Publish date : 2024-12-10 13:20:59
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